We are informed that a particular batch of MTDE Amazonia harnesses has failed safety checks when tested in Croatia. The batch which is the problem is no. SA5117. We don’t think we have sold any harnesses from that batch but you might like to check your Amazonia to be on the safe side. The batch no. is at the top of the label.
We have finished our pocket survey on Twitter and many thanks to the 37 people who replied!
The answer is that:
38% of cavers like a chest pocket on the outside
32% like a chest pocket on the inside
8% like waist level on the inside and
22% like something different.
Several people said they like a small pocket on the outside of the arm, one respondent likes an outside and an inside pocket, and one respondent said the pocket should be VERY VERY BIG.
If anyone else has any thoughts, we always like to have feedback. We can’t always promise that manufacturers will make all the design changes that we might suggest, because the price of making the suit so that it can be sold economically is a pretty big factor, but at least if we know what people might like in an ideal world, that may help.
Finally, Tony says I failed to ask whether people mind if they have a pocket at all, so we ran a second Twitter survey about this. The results are that out of 23 respondents, 91% of respondents want a pocket, and only 9% (um, 2.07 people?) would have a suit with no pocket if it was a bit cheaper.
“Candles are by common consent the most dependable illuminant, as they cast no treacherous shadows, though electric torches are a good standby”
H.E. Balch. Mendip: Its Swallet Caves and Rock Shelters.
Those cavers with middling-long careers will remember the occasionally reliable Oldham cells of the ’80s, with their array of bulbs – Krypton, Halogen – and their fuses that could be bodged with the silver paper from Kit Kat wrappers. Coming into the UK this week is a new light by Petzl, the Duo S, which still has an array of ‘bulbs’ – well, LEDs – but can no longer be fixed by a Kit Kat wrapper…
The fuller specification is on the website, under the ‘Lights…’ section. Here it’s probably sufficient to say, it does a lot! Rather than repeat the facts (there’ll be lots of blurb online soon anyway), I’ll stick a couple of opinions on here (my own, and to be taken with the appropriate pinch of salt).
The current Petzl range of lights useful for caving seems to be:
1. Pixa 2, a light for centre use because it is bright enough (especially in smaller group-friendly caves, where clients work in groups of eight – twelve) without giving any battery-draining or instructor-blinding options. It has headtorch and helmet mounting options so it can double up for caving and night walks, and it can run off rechargeable and also prime AA cells, useful for times of power cut or charger failure.
2. Pixa 3, a light for club use because it gives 100 lumens (*how* much brighter than an FX2?), can be managed by sensible novices to balance run-time with appropriate brightness, and is relatively cheap – certainly for a reliable, cave appropriate unit. Running on AA cells, it is easier for a club equipment officer to manage than lithium-ion cells – if a charger doesn’t work then the local supermarket will see you for the weekend. The mounting options also make it a useful spare light, as it can be handed over to a lightless caver to fit to their helmet quite easily. Plus, it’s a perfectly good headtorch for walking back from the pub with. Incidentally it has a niche for taking on expeditions where your main light is run on a rechargeable lithium -ion array, but if the generator or solar panels fail, then at least you can still go caving. We’ve seen the Pixa 3 going to Meghalaya on the strength of this.
3. Duo Z2, a light that Petzl market as being for general use, as it runs on four AA batteries and comes within most non-student-cavers’ budgets. It has lots of nice features, but in my opinion its performance is entirely defined by the choice of power source. The given run times are 15 hours 30 minutes at 50 lumens (ambient); 6 hours 45 minutes at 120 lumens (proximity); and 2 hours at 220 lumens (movement). In context, that’s about an OFD 1 – Top Entrance trip without a battery change, with a bit of care; assuming that your rechargeables are giving as good performance as prime AA cells – Petzl don’t specify the batteries that give these results but let’s assume they’ve not chosen duff ones! It’s the usual story, you won’t get lithium-ion performance out of a sane number of nickel-metal-hydride cells; you’ll limit brightness or else you’ll limit duration. What you do get, is a significant up-front price saving – cells and chargers don’t come cheap, if you want ones that don’t blow up! Also, here, you get a high-end primary light that you can take anywhere that AA cells are available; this may be helpful if you are worried about flying with lithium-ion cells on an expedition. You’ll want battery sponsorship, and possible a team of porters to carry your spare cells, but at least you’ll have a bright light to cave on despite the worst efforts of customs officials or your expo nerd who has killed the solar panels… So if anything, I’d suggest that this is a specialist light primarily, for a subset of expeditioners flying outside of Europe; with maybe a place in the kit store of UK based cavers who want a nice bit of kit but don’t do very long or regular trips, where the battery duration / ongoing running costs will start to kick in.
4. Duo S, the new Petzl high-end caving torch, which effectively replaces the Rush, Vario etc. It runs off the same ACCU 2 (with options for ACCU4) rechargeable lithium-ion cells as its precursors; so if you had one of these but fancy the latest kit, you’ll have a spare battery and charger which can’t be bad. The brightness of the Duo S is impressive, the price is competitive for this level (the three year warranty on the lamp is nice), and the weight on the head is attractive for those who have reason to worry about this. Petzl have made a decision to keep with the ACCU 2 as standard and it should be fine for UK use; 700 lumens for 3 hours 30 minutes, 330 lumens for 6 hours and so on should be enough for most light junkies. For trips abroad it gets to be more of a balancing act. You’ll probably want more than one battery for a trip down the Berger, for instance – this is not a challenge! – and a prolonged underground camping trip might call for a significant investment in spare cells; or else you’ll need to be parsimonious with your light. We’ll probably do a ‘buy four batteries at a discount’ or similar at some point to help those who want to club together for an expo. I think that there’s a sliding scale between those whose summer involves caving in Matienzo, the Vercors or similar – excellent caving where few trips are longer than twenty four hours, rechargers at the gite – and those whose holiday consists of living on top of a mountain where power supply is imperfect, and staying underground for four days or more. Very much a decision based upon one’s caving preferences and ambitions. The only other factors to bear in mind when thinking about the Duo Z2, the Duo S, or anything else, is the IPX67 (waterproofness) rating on the Duo, which is fine for most caving but really isn’t diveable; and also that the two Duos *don’t* allow changing from one battery source to another; at the moment the DuoS runs on the ACCU2 (or ACCU4) but it cannot be made to run off anything else like a AA or 9v cell.
SO! These are my current meanderings on the latest Petzl line up. I’ve not talked about the liminal models that are used down caves – sometimes quite successfully, like the various Tikkas or Myos, which would extend the discussion to even greater lengths! I’m very glad that Petzl have re-engaged with proper, designed-for-purpose-caving lights. For most of the last decade we had a mantra of asking our Petzl dealer “what is going to replace the Duo?” every spring. How people like the new ones, and how they go in real life, we’ll see; but at least they really are quite distinctly new, and I think they have a place in the considerations of new cavers, and those looking to upgrade.
Just a small consideration of undersuits and general insulation, in the wake of my recent trip to Snezhnaja Cave in Abkhazia, and thinking about the differences between my trips of winter 2016 and 2017.
The cave itself is a steady 6C, so not too cold. However the trip itself lasted eight days, with some of the individual working days in excess of sixteen hours. Also the surface was significantly colder, with lots of snow. All these factors played a part in the selection of kit for this year’s trip.
Last year I used an MTDE Butron, and was miserably cold for days on end. Normally I find this thin, very flexible and wicking garment fine for British and most European trips, including ones lasting several days and involving underground camps. Trying to work out why it had been such a problem in 2016, I came to the conclusion that it was a combination of two factors: caving style and physical attrition.
In the first case, Russian caving is sometimes a communal affair. Especially in this cave, where each person had at least a couple of heavy tackle bags, and some parts of the cave are a little awkward or tortuous, there is a tendency to cave as a group and move kit through obstacles using a human chain. This has some benefits but it does mean that there may be periods of five to ten minutes where there is little movement, and some of these locations may be damp or very, very draughty. Also both these trips used “pod” camps, where all stoves, food, tents and sleeping bags moved with the team, so the beginning and end of each caving day involved being pretty static while bags were unpacked, tents strung up and so on. If you rely on steady movement and burning calories to keep comfortable when caving, then you’re going to have a hard time on a trip like this.
Secondly – related but not identical – it is not easy to maintain full health on a multi-day caving trip, especially in a cold cave. Nutrition is hard to manage, even with vitamin tablets, and as a veggie getting enough protein can be especially difficult. The overall effect of hard work on a stressed body seems to be to make it more prone to cold, and the effect is increased the longer the stress goes on. In the case of these particular trips, the stress begins before the cave is ever reached; as time is short, moderately strenuous kit-carries bringing equipment up to the entrance – in conditions comfortably below freezing – are taxing, and there is not time for proper recovery before the caving starts.
So this year I opted for the significantly heavier and warmer AV Illamina, which is made of full-weight Powerstretch. This proved ideal for this trip. Slightly too warm at the start of the day, but nothing too bad; as the days progressed, the body deteriorated and the fabric became more vile and unwashed, even this problem disappeared. And at the end of the day, the cold was noticeable but perfectly bearable.
The other key elements were threefold: a Powerstretch balaclava, a thin basic waterproof and a mid-weight thermal top. None of these was required while actually moving in the cave (even the balaclava – a Buff was worn at all times to maintain head warmth), but the first two fitted into a drybag and could easily be stowed into the top of a tackle bag. Thus, at the taking down and putting up of the camp, extra warmth could be added with no appreciable delay; also at the base of a large pitch on the way out. The waterproof (Decathlon’s cheapest) was sized to fit over all kit, including oversuit and SRT kit, for mid-trip pauses.
For sleeping, adding the fleece to the Illamina gave sufficiently warm nights that the balaclava could generally be used as a pillow, rather than worn. The fleece was kept with the sleeping bag, as the other two items covered all the requirements of the working day.
This system worked well, and I’d use it again in similar circumstances; all I’d add would be a dedicated set of thick warm socks for tent life – drying your caving socks over the stove is effective but not perfectly so, and in trying circumstances a little luxury is welcome.
The only caveat. This minimum amount of clothing for effective warmth will leave you smelling like a dead badger after the first week, as there’s no allowance for changing kit, but that’s the price of efficiency!
Scurion have reminded us that normal IATA rules say you should be able to carry your Scurion (or any Li-ion light) in your hand luggage provided the labelling on the battery is not worn so that the security officer can’t tell what he or she is dealing with. However there have been rumours of cavers flying via Dubai (e.g. to Meghalaya) having their Scurion confiscated. See http://scurion.ch/jm/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=218:transport-of-li-ion-batteries-in-airplaines-&catid=40:faq&Itemid=63&lang=en
Lyon Equipment have passed on to us details of this competition from the BMC, Petzl and Glenmore Lodge for the chance to win a two-day winter skills course at the Lodge, and a Summit Evo Ice Axe. The competition details are at Winter Course
It is strange how, as SRT cavers, we don’t look after kit. Unlike cars or washing machines or computers, it’s all pretty eighteenth-century stuff. All your jammers, descenders and harnesses need is a little, little bit of TLC. You can do it at home, in an alpine meadow on expedition, or even – to an extent – underground. Here are a few suggestions. They’re not exhaustive but at least they’re a start…
Harnesses and ropes are pretty tough, but if we wash our SRT ropes when we have used them, then surely we need to extend the same treatment to the cowstails and footloops that get rubbed against rock, dragged through gritty mud, and repetitively stressed in use. Think of the dreadful things you do to your footloops, when you grind mud into the foot section, then repeatedly put your full weight on it, maybe thousands of times!
For this kit, a good wash in warm water is surely the least it can expect. A stream and a scrubbing brush will do, but warm soapy water is even better – this is why we wash our clothes in special machines and not (normally) in rivers. Most of the non-metal parts of your SRT kit are made of the same material as your clothes, so why not treat them in a similar way? Harnesses are sold with notes on their care, so take a moment to read them. As a minimum it should be possible to sneak cowstails and footloops into a caving hut kitchen and give them a once-over in the sink. Just remember to tidy up after yourself or there may be trouble – don’t blame me for that…(As an aside – if you choose to put kit through the washing machine, take the metalwork off first, use a cool – sports – wash, and put it in an old pillow slip to keep it neat if you like. Don’t put it through a hot wash, or force dry it at all!)
If you are camping underground, leaving the kit in running water overnight will help, if you give it a bit of a scrub to break up crusted silt. BUT remember to secure it – having your SRT kit washed away in a flood would be embarrassing.
Metalwork – jammers, descenders, karabiners and maillons – all get treated pretty brutally. They contain simple mechanisms but they can still be delicate with their small springs and fine bearings. Let’s be clear, oiling is not enough. It’s like putting polish on your shoes without taking the crud off them first. The answer is simple – once again warm soapy water is the best treatment. Washing up water is ideal as long as you clean the plates and cutlery first, or you may get complaints! Treat the kit like you would a dirty plate, let it soak and then give it a bit of a scrub. After that, all you need to do is work the moving parts while still in the water (gates and screwgates on karabiners, cams on ascenders, moving plates on descenders). You should feel the mechanism clearing as the combination of movement (to loosen grit) and water (to transport grit away) works its magic. Keep doing this until it all moves as you’d want it to. Perhaps the main advantage of warm water is that it makes this part of the process comfortable, so you persevere until the kit is properly clean!
As for lubricating moving parts, I know that this is a controversial area. So I’ll let people make up their own minds about what to use, while adding that a small application of cooking oil has helped make maillons and descenders work as good as new on several expeditions.
At this point, you must hang the kit up to dry, if you possibly can. Don’t leave wet alloy and wet steel in close connection for long periods of time – the alloy doesn’t benefit from this at all. As I said earlier, force drying or leaving in high altitude sunshine is to be avoided, but generally a dark or at least shaded place can be found to allow kit to drip and air. Don’t put it back in a plastic bag! This is also the best opportunity to check kit for developing problems: wear and abrasion on harnesses; slipping knots on cowstails; loose nuts on descenders; and smooth cams on jammers. This is perhaps the most important part of the process, after all!
It all takes about ten minutes. Just make the washing up bowl your friend!
Measure from the bottom of your palm to the tip of your middle finger to get your finger length in mm. Use the longest finger length to determine your size. If your finger length falls between two sizes, buy the bigger ones.
These are the UK glove sizes based on finger length:
160mm – size 6
171 mm – size 7
182 mm – size 8
192 mm – size 9
204 mm – size 10
215 + mm – size 11